Denver is head over heels for Italian cuisine right now, and the city’s culinary scene is buzzing with excitement. But here’s where it gets controversial: is this a fleeting trend, or a lasting love affair? In just the past three months, four distinctly Italian-inspired, pasta-centric restaurants have opened their doors across the Mile High City, each bringing its own unique twist to the table. What’s striking is how different they all are—it’s nearly impossible to find two dishes that taste the same, even though they share a common culinary heritage.
First up was Boombots Pasta Shop, which debuted in the Sunnyside neighborhood last November. Hot on its heels came Florence Supper Club and Johnny Bechamel’s in December, both setting up shop in the neighborhoods west of Washington Park. Most recently, Dear Emilia made its grand entrance in the River North Art District on January 29. While all four establishments draw inspiration from Italy, their approaches couldn’t be more diverse.
And this is the part most people miss: it’s not just about pasta—it’s about how these restaurants are redefining Italian cuisine in Denver. Take Dear Emilia, for example. Co-owner Heather Morrison, whose sister restaurant Restaurant Olivia recently earned a James Beard nomination for Outstanding Hospitality, explains, ‘People crave pasta, but there are endless ways to make it well. Denver’s food scene is a perfect example of that diversity.’ Dear Emilia pays homage to Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, blending its traditions with Colorado’s local sensibilities. Think dishes like anolini—coin-shaped pasta filled with beef cheek, tossed in Parmigiano crema and balsamic essence—or cappellacci, a butternut squash-filled tortellini dressed in a squash miso jus.
Morrison and her co-owners, Austin Carson and Ty Leon, were inspired by a trip to Emilia-Romagna, where they were struck by the region’s emphasis on local sourcing and community-driven dining. ‘We were so taken by the ingredients, hospitality, and warmth of every place we visited,’ Morrison recalls. Their mission? To stay true to northern Italian culinary traditions while making them feel at home in Denver.
On the flip side, Boombots Pasta Shop is all about pushing boundaries. Founder Cliff Blauvelt, who also owns Odie B’s sandwich shop, describes his approach as ‘looking at pasta through a different lens.’ Here, you’ll find inventive dishes like smoked duck and green chile lumache, everything-seasoned cavatelli stroganoff, and samosa agnolotti made with curry-flavored pasta. ‘Everybody knows what a samosa is, but stuffing it into pasta? That’s wild,’ Blauvelt says. Perfecting these eclectic combinations took trial and error—like their dirty martini bucatini, where the team experimented with olive flavors until they landed on the perfect balance.
But here’s the controversial question: is this still Italian food, or something entirely new? Blauvelt argues, ‘You can manipulate pasta doughs into anything. It takes time, but the possibilities are endless.’
Meanwhile, the neighborhoods around Washington Park are giving northwest Denver a run for its money as the city’s Italian food hub. Longtime favorite Carmine’s, serving classics like bolognese and lasagna since 1994, now faces competition from Johnny Bechamel’s and Florence Supper Club. Chef Spencer White of Johnny Bechamel’s describes his menu as ‘Jersey Italian,’ with playful twists like matzo meatballs made with pork and chicken, and lasagnette stuffed with mushrooms and leeks. ‘It’s not true Italian-American,’ he admits, ‘but it’s definitely ours.’
Florence Supper Club, on the other hand, sticks to tradition. Co-owner Miles Odell, a New Jersey native, sees the restaurant as a tribute to East Coast Italian-American cuisine. ‘These are the dishes I grew up with,’ he says. From meatballs in red sauce to chicken parmesan, Florence delivers the classics without apology.
So, is Denver’s Italian food scene a trend or a revolution? And where do you draw the line between innovation and tradition? Let us know in the comments—we’re eager to hear your thoughts. And if you’re hungry for more, subscribe to our food newsletter, Stuffed, for the latest Denver food and drink news delivered straight to your inbox. (https://myaccount.denverpost.com/dp/preference)
